|
|
Just like your car, your home comfort system needs routine maintenance to keep it running at its best. Without regular servicing,
heating and cooling systems waste energy and are more likely to break down. But with the proper attention, they can keep you
comfortable year-round.
Below are some basic tips to keep your system running efficiently? However, these tips
are not designed to replace annual servicing by a qualified Indoor Comfort Specialist. To set up an appointment, contact us
by e-mail or phone any time. CONTACT US
Heating Equipment
Heat pumps and oil-fired furnaces and boilers need a yearly professional tune-up. Gas-fired
equipment burns cleaner; it should be serviced every other year with in first 5 to 8 year and there after every year as well.
Step 1
A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical contacts
and frayed wires. In furnace (forced-air) and boiler (hot-water) systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork
or pipes, dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line and the gas meter or oil tank, as well
as every part of the furnace or boiler itself.
Step 2
Next, the system should be run through
a full heating cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Contractors use smoke pencils to check
for sufficient draft and also test the air for carbon monoxide.
Step 3
Finally, it's
time for the down and dirty task of cleaning the burner and heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk that can impede smooth
operation. For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas
or changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an inspection of the compressor,
fan, indoor and outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure
should be checked. Low pressure indicates a leak; to locate it, contractors feed tinted refrigerant into the loop and go over
it with an electronic detector.
Back to Top CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING MAINTENANCE
With proper maintenance, a new air conditioner should
last 12-15 years, and can last much longer than that in cases when YORK system is installed. With central air and/or window
units it's not only important to have routine maintenance performed on them, but to also use other features that will
help you're A/C run even better. Below are some maintenance tips, followed by some suggestions that will keep your unit
from working too hard.
The first thing is to make sure your unit is not leaking and is draining as it should. If
too much water is allowed to remain in the system, or oppositely that too much is allowed to escape, then your air conditioner
is not running as it should. Check hose connections for leaks or crack, and make sure the condensate tube is able to drain
without impediment.
Change the filter every 4-6 weeks. If anyone in your family suffers from severe allergies,
having a media type high efficiency air cleaner can be a significant help to them. Consult with indoor air quality specialists
for additional improvements on your system.
Clean off the outside air compressor with water. A garden hose will
do the trick. Use only none acid coil cleaners, and be careful not to damage coil fins.
Keep all things away from
the condenser so that it has a free flow of air.
It is important to have your ductwork professionally cleaned every
3-4 years. This will not only make you breathe a little better in your home, but it will also keep your home from being so
dusty. This process can be particularly effective if you have hardwood floors, since carpet will usually grab and hide dust
bunnies.
CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING TIPS
If you have any doubts about the efficiency or effectiveness of your air conditioning
unit, have it inspected by good HVAC contractor. This professional can make deft adjustments to your unit to ensure
that it is in prime condition. If you’re a/c isn’t cycling properly its time to call HVAC technician, its not
uncommon for brand new systems to be improperly installed and never properly adjusted.
By using ceiling fans,
whole house fans, and box fans you can circulate the cool air quicker and help out your air conditioning unit. Also, move
drapes, pots, and furniture away from vents so that the air can free flow to reach more area. Whole house fans are particularly
effective at helping air cooling systems and can lower the indoor very quickly.
Your attic needs to be properly
ventilated to ensure correct and efficient airflow. Good attic ventilation can reduce heating and cooling costs by 10-12 percent.
Pull the shades and blinds on the sides of the house that get the most direct and intense sun. This will not
only keep your home cooler, but will also protect your home from sun damaged furniture and sun damaged floors.
If at all possible, wait until the cooler times of the day, specifically late evenings and early mornings, to run dishwashers
and dryers. These appliances emit a good amount of heat when they run, and without you noticing, they can raise the temperature
in the house. (Opposite to this, try to run these appliances during the daytime in the winter to help out your heater.)
Back to Top
Blowers
Tuning up the distribution side of a forced-air system starts with the blower. The axle should
be lubricated; blades cleaned and lower motor checked to insure the unit isn't being overloaded. The fan belt should be
adjusted so it deflects no more than an inch when pressed. Every accessible joint in the ductwork should be sealed with mastic
or UL-approved duct tapes. Any ducts that run outside the heated space should be insulated. On a hot-water system, the expansion
tank should be drained, the circulating pumps cleaned and lubricated and air bled out of the radiators.
Back to Top
Thermostats
While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade over time as mechanical parts
stick or lose their calibration. Older units will send faulty signals if they've been knocked out of level or have dirty
switches. To recalibrate an older unit, use a wrench to adjust the nut on the back of the mercury switch until it turns the
system on and, using a room thermometer, set it to the correct temperature. Modern electronic thermostats, sealed at the factory
to keep out dust and grime, rarely need adjusting. However, whether your thermostat is old or young, the hole where the thermostat
wire comes through the wall needs to be caulked, or a draft could trick it into thinking the room is warmer or colder than
it really is.
Back to Top
Humidifiers
A neglected in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria, not to mention add too much
moisture to a house. A common mistake with humidifiers is leaving them on after the heating season ends. Don't forget
to pull the plug, shut the water valve and drain the unit. A unit with a water reservoir should be drained and cleaned with
white vinegar, a mix of one part chlorine bleach to eight parts water or muriatic acid. Mist-type humidifiers also require
regular cleaning to remove mineral deposits.
Back to Top
Filters
Most houses with forced-air furnaces have a standard furnace filter made from loosely woven
spun-glass fibers designed to keep it and its ductwork clean. Unfortunately, they don't improve indoor air quality. That
takes a media filter, which sits in between the main return duct and the blower cabinet. Made of a deeply pleated, paper-like
material, media filters are at least seven times better than a standard filter at removing dust and other particles. An upgrade
to a pleated media filter will cleanse the air of everything from insecticide dust to flu viruses.
Compressed,
media filters are usually no wider than six inches, but the pleated material can cover up to 75 square feet when stretched
out. This increased area of filtration accounts for the filter's long life, which can exceed two years. The only drawback
to a media filter is its tight weave, which can restrict a furnace's ability to blow air through the house. To insure
a steady, strong airflow through the house, choose a filter that matches your blower's capacity.
Back to Top
|
|
|
|
